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I recently purchased vanilla in a grocery store in Luxembourg and could not help wondering about the price: 4 – 6 EUR for a single pod of vanilla. Fascinated by this very expensive and very lonely vanilla pod in a glass vial I started to investigate…
Madagaskar is one of the poorest countries on earth. Only 1 out of 4 km of roads are paved, around 75% of the population were estimated to live below the international poverty line of 1.90 USD in 2019. For 150 years, Madagascar has steadily been exporting Vanilla to the world, until it recently provided over 80% of world market.
Poor subsistence farmers growing the vanilla orchid in a mixed culture (agroforestry) used to earn a few dollars per kg through a very industrious process of hand-pollinating every single flower every single day for 3 months.
For a while, vanilla went the way of coffee. Little of the final price of 50 USD per kg remained in the pockets of the farmers and big players dominated the world market. Then came the end of price controls. Under pressure from the World Bank, Madagascar was forced to abandon price controls in the 1990s. What followed were collapsing prices bringing farmers to their knees. For long months of labor, farmers were paid only between 10 and 20 USD per kg of cured vanilla. Too little to survive and forcing them to heavily rely on self-grown food and relatives.
Development organisations came to Madagsacar to do their magic with food security aid, biosphere protection, market systems development, financial inclusion, gender mainstreaming, education development, sustainable product labeling – you get the story. “While hundreds of millions of $ have been invested in over 500 environmental-based projects in Madagascar during […] 1993–2008, deforestation remains unchecked and none of the eight Millennium Development Goals (MDGs) established for 2000–2015 were likely be met. Efforts to achieve sustainable development had failed to reduce poverty or deliver progress toward any of the MDGs.” wrote a PLOS ONE paper in 2016.
The market price for vanilla was still floating freely and after a hurricane destroyed most of the vanilla plants in 2000, the prices spiked to a 100 USD in the early 2000s. International buyers reported that local exporters were asking about 600 USD a kilo for cured vanilla on a Monday and roughly 20 USD by that Friday. Warehouses were stuck with beans they couldn’t sell for anything close to what they’d paid for them, and a couple of the biggest, most well-established vanilla dealers in the country went out of business (Bloomberg). Whatever farmer jumped on the bandwagon and started to grow vanilla got a disappointment. Prices went down again to the range of 20 to 30 USD per kg of cured vanilla for almost 10 years. An overthrown government in 2009 did not help in any way.
In an attempt to better protect their interest, the global vanilla buyers started programs to increase quality, traceability and ensure a level of sustainablility. Farmers were trained, schools were built, agricultural diversification was taught to strengthen food security and to establish alternative sources of revenue, and access to clean water was ensured.
Then the market went wild. Between 2016 and 2020 prices were in stratospheric dimensions of over 200 USD per kg of cured vanilla. It became the second most expensive spice after safron and cost more than silver for a while. 2017 and 2018 reported prices of 485 and 590$ per kg (Bloomberg) and by September 2020 the prices came down to 250$. Further deflation is expected over the next few years.
When the boom happened, there was not much of a banking infrastructure, let alone financial literacy to deal with the sudden wealth. A few farmers disposed of their wealth in the way of nouveau-riches and everyone in the vanilla growing region has a story about “hot money” to tell. Chicken cost USD 10 all of a sudden and a lot of new 4x4 cars were queueing up at the gas station. The roads are still unpaved. Most farmers did not have a bank account or know how to save money, so they purchased houses in town or stored money in their homes. Typically the money was spent as soon as possible, and the Madagascar Ariary is not known as a strong currency. Since 2008 it lost 60% of value against the USD. With the largest denomination, the 20’000-ariary note being worth about USD 5, the weight of money required to buy the harvest is enormeous. In 2018, a buyer had to wait 3 days to settle a deal until the central bank had printed more money.
All of a sudden, children are sent to schools in town, better mattresses are purchased, TVs and solar panels adorn houses. Nothing of it is the result of any development activities, it’s pure coincidence – a whim of the free market. The farmers know that the end of high vanilla prices is near and they brace for impact. A sustainable price for green vanilla at the farmer’s gate is estimated to be around 18 USD per kg. For cured vanilla it might be in the range of 100 – 150 USD per kg.
A farmer family of four can take care of 10’000 m2 of plantation at the most (Fairtrade). A realistic assumption may be that a smallholder farmer family has 1’500 m2 planted with vanilla. They might have around 370 vanilla plants at a distance of 200cm from each other. The first 3 years, there are no flowers and thus no vanilla pods. After 6 years, a full harvest of 1kg per plant can be picked. The lifetime of a plant is about 15 years.
When vanilla is harvested ripe, the shrinkage is a factor of 6 during the curing process. It can go as high as 7.5 when vanilla is harvested too early.
yield on 1500 m² |
93 kg green |
373 kg green 62 kg cured |
4’287 kg green |
|
|
year | market price | revenue year 3 |
revenue year 10 |
total revenue in 15 years |
average earnings per day |
2014 | green $5 cured $50 |
green $466 |
green $1’864 cured $3’106 |
green $21’434 cured $35’723 |
green $3.9 cured $6.5 |
2019 | green $50 cured $400 |
green $4’660 |
green $18’638 cured $24’851 |
green $214’339 cured $285’785 |
green $39 cured $52 |
2020 | green $10 cured $250 |
green $932 cured $3’883 |
green $3’728 cured $15’532 |
green $42’868 |
green $7.8 |
sustainable |
green $18 |
green $1’677 cured $1’941 |
green $6’710 |
green $77’162 |
green $14 |
While market prices are much more complicated in the way of fluctuations and by distinguishing 5 different qualities, the picture is clear: by curing green vanilla to Bourbon gourmet grade, a farmer can earn more by spending a full month sweating and drying the pods in a suitable location. Cured vanilla keeps longer, thus a farmer can time the market better and is not forced to sell at a low.
With a sustainable price of USD18 per kg green vanilla (as guaranteed by Fairtrade), a farmer could earn USD 14 per day during 15 years, lifting a family of 4 above the poverty line of USD 1.90. The prices of 2014 on the contrary kept the farmer family below the poverty line.
There are still many pitfalls on the way to a sustainable life for vanilla farmers:
- Income distribution over time: for the first 3 years there is no harvest from a vanilla orchid. The money becomes available when the produce is sold (typically on 1 day in the year) and has to last for a full year. This requires saving and spending discipline.
- Skills and knowledge influence the size of the harvest and the quality of the product, be it green or cured vanilla
- With sky-high market prices, thefts have gone up and farmers either sleep in their fields or pay for guards. Some thieves have been killed.
- Natural disasters may damage the delicate plants and introduce another price spike. Diseases and pests may attack plants locally. Vanilla monocultures are at risk.
- Guaranteed minimum prices rely on consumers being willing to pay when the product is much cheaper on the free market. Synthetic vanillin is on the rise.
- Competition from places like Indonesia, Papua New Guinea, Mexico (the home country of vanilla), China, Turkey or Uganda might shift the market weight.
- Vanilla prices are fluctuating and a matter of random coincidence for the smallholder farmers, loosely coupled with last year’s prices. They feel disenfranchised by the global market whims and need a strategy and tools to even out the income spikes.
The current high prices are keeping farmers in Madagascar happy – at least for a bit more, but the impact of the large size of the profit may have the same effect as a lottery win: it may leave the family in the same poor position after the straw fire of hot money has died down. Where farmers were able to convert the opportunity of a lifetime into a lifetime of benefits, the whole family has been lifted out of poverty. All through the forces of the free market. Let the development practitioners fix the cracks and fill the gaps.
Foto von ritual auf Pixabay